Friday, November 28, 2014

Gretna, etc

The month of November has been pretty busy for me, and I have also seen some big jumps in my climbing. I went to the Gretna competition and had a blast with my Timonium crew and #teammarkyece. I was super happy to put down a bunch of new boulders that day, as well as send the amazing Islander sit, which goes around V9. I placed 2nd in advanced and took home some super cool Atomik Pipe Bombs. Now, as my skin is finally getting good, (thanks to anti-h) I have seen big leaps in my ability to try hard and send. I flashed a V9 in the gym and just about sent (fell off last move) an 11 in one session.

Rusty and I also made it out to Rocks State Park last Friday.  We warmed up and I was happy to repeat Truck Driver on my first try of the day, and it felt much easier than the first time I had sent it. Then we moved up to try Moby Dick, the famous Jason Kehl line up a striking prow, perfect compression V10. This was to be my first time trying the boulder. In about half an hour I did all of the moves, and the send was quickly beginning to feel very possible. The first time I tried it from the start I made it up to the crux when my foot blew. I rested for a while and went for the second burn. Unfortunately, in my rest, my lack of clothing (a tank top and cargos) made me go cold in the 20-30 weather with high winds. I tried anyways, and on the hard bump out to a slopey crimp, I felt a shock of pain go up my arm. From my finger tip to my elbow was searing and sensitive. F@&*. I was bummed to say the least. I wasn't going to send the amazing boulder in one session. I was injured. I can't climb after I was just doing so well. Regionals was in 2 weeks. LRC was in 1 month.

So, the past week has been filled with a ton of ice, sulking, ibp, and core. Lots of core. I felt no improvement between each day and was really quite upset. Then, I received some treatment from a family friend who is a doctor of some sort. She supplied me with a multitude of oils and told me to rub them into my hand twice a day. I followed her instructions, and miraculously now one week later, my finger has little to no pain. Regionals is looking much more attainable and I cannot wait to get back on the wall, and back to rocks to finish of Moby.

Oh, and Thanksgiving was awesome and I ate a ton of delicious food and reconnecting with my family members who most of I have not seen in 12 some years.

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