Friday, November 28, 2014

Gretna, etc

The month of November has been pretty busy for me, and I have also seen some big jumps in my climbing. I went to the Gretna competition and had a blast with my Timonium crew and #teammarkyece. I was super happy to put down a bunch of new boulders that day, as well as send the amazing Islander sit, which goes around V9. I placed 2nd in advanced and took home some super cool Atomik Pipe Bombs. Now, as my skin is finally getting good, (thanks to anti-h) I have seen big leaps in my ability to try hard and send. I flashed a V9 in the gym and just about sent (fell off last move) an 11 in one session.

Rusty and I also made it out to Rocks State Park last Friday.  We warmed up and I was happy to repeat Truck Driver on my first try of the day, and it felt much easier than the first time I had sent it. Then we moved up to try Moby Dick, the famous Jason Kehl line up a striking prow, perfect compression V10. This was to be my first time trying the boulder. In about half an hour I did all of the moves, and the send was quickly beginning to feel very possible. The first time I tried it from the start I made it up to the crux when my foot blew. I rested for a while and went for the second burn. Unfortunately, in my rest, my lack of clothing (a tank top and cargos) made me go cold in the 20-30 weather with high winds. I tried anyways, and on the hard bump out to a slopey crimp, I felt a shock of pain go up my arm. From my finger tip to my elbow was searing and sensitive. F@&*. I was bummed to say the least. I wasn't going to send the amazing boulder in one session. I was injured. I can't climb after I was just doing so well. Regionals was in 2 weeks. LRC was in 1 month.

So, the past week has been filled with a ton of ice, sulking, ibp, and core. Lots of core. I felt no improvement between each day and was really quite upset. Then, I received some treatment from a family friend who is a doctor of some sort. She supplied me with a multitude of oils and told me to rub them into my hand twice a day. I followed her instructions, and miraculously now one week later, my finger has little to no pain. Regionals is looking much more attainable and I cannot wait to get back on the wall, and back to rocks to finish of Moby.

Oh, and Thanksgiving was awesome and I ate a ton of delicious food and reconnecting with my family members who most of I have not seen in 12 some years.

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Midnight Burn

            Yesterday was the 19th annual Midnight Burn competition at PRG Oaks. The competition is known for bringing in big names such as Magnus Mitboe, Matt Bosley, Nick Picarella, Vasya Vorotnikov, and Brian Kim. I competed in youth in the morning and although I felt pretty out of my element and not super strong I still was able to win my category. I then planned to put my scorecard through to Open and try to make finals, but unlike years previous this was no longer allowed. Apparently I was only allowed to compete in one or the other, not both. I still decided to stick around and watch the show, although after adult redpoint I was very frustrated to see that if they had allowed me to put my score in I would have qualified for the open final against some of my climbing role models. For whatever reason Vasya and Charlie, who had RSVP to show up did not come, but Brian Kim, Nick Pic, and Sol, were all there to crush, as well as other strong dudes. Watching those 3 in finals was insane and extremely motivating. I have a lot to look forward to and to train for! ABS season is moving along nicely, I plan on going up to atleast one darkhorse series, and I have officially planned a weeklong trip to Stone Fort this winter!!

Vertical Rock and Coopers

The first competition of the season was two Saturdays ago held at Vertical Rock. The Boneyard Boulder Bash! I had been looking forward to the event and was planning on staying to compete in open afterwards. In the youth redpoint round I started off slow and then surprised myself by flashing the third hardest problem. Once I did that I realized the level of the climbs and sent problems 2-7. Then I could spend the rest of the comp projecting the hardest two. I figured I only had time to send one of the two so I chose to focus on the one more my style, large powerful moves on pinches, rather than finicky crimps. After maybe 6 or 7 tries I sent and was super psyched to have done the hardest problem in the gym. I won youth A as well as the overall score for the youth competition and was really happy! I also got a badass golden skeleton trophy. Then after an hours rest (and someone taking my climbing shoes) it was time for the adult redpoint round in my busted up shoes. I was able to redo the hard problems and qualified for finals in 2nd. The first of two final boulders was very much so my style a dyno to heel hooks and big moves on pinches and slopers. I sent on two attempts, after an unfortunate foot slip. The second climb was a slab (oh, great) involving a balanced mantle that I just could not do. I finished off my first open competition in 3rd!

We also made it out to Coopers Rock, WV for a day trip. It was my first time out there, and although we didn't get on that many boulders, it was still nice to finally see the area after so many trips cancelled due to weather. I got to do so many fun moderates!

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

September Training

As the leaves change colors and begin to fall so do the temperatures, finally. After an incredibly humid summer the weather is finally becoming climbable and I could not be more psyched to get outside. The past month it has been quite rainy, however, I have managed a couple good trips to Mount Gretna, and gotten a few sessions in on local projects. In the gym I have unfortunately been plagued with terrible, raw, bleeding, skin for quite a few months now, despite many attempts using different products. I recently, thanks to some friendly advice, am using garlic and rubbing alcohol, which has been working quite well. Unfortunately, it is no the most nose-friendly. I just finished up my period of endurance training, and am very excited to be moving into my power phase. With competitions soon approaching (the first one this saturday) and am getting super psyched. This weekend, the competition at Vertical Rock, in VA, I will be competing in both the youth, and adult open category.  My goal is to make open finals, and have a good time. It is an exciting time with both competition and outdoor season knocking on the door!

Monday, September 1, 2014

September Start

Since, my last post I have sent another indoor V10, have started school, and gone through some personal achievements. This past month I have been training. A lot! Yesterday I was glad to have done two one-arm pullups in a row per arm. My climbing in the past month has improved ridiculously and I feel stronger than ever! As school has started I have needed to limit my time in the gym, slightly. It is an unfortunate yet necessary loss. The comp schedule for this year has been posted and I am so excited to try hard! I cannot wait to keep getting stronger and pushing myself to send hard outdoor! I have been doing a lot of hangboard training to combat my weakness (finger strength) and so far I have really seen results in my climbing! Happy September

Wednesday, August 6, 2014


Wow. So my last post was in January after divisionals. Since then much has happened, including all of routes season haha. Since my last post I have bouldered V10 (indoors), came first in JIBS (with Cameron Horst behind me), horribly failed at being a route climber, decided to not train for routes or compete in them again, went to summer camp for a month, and started projecting V10 outdoors. Also, I am now a sponsored athlete by Primo Chalk, makers of the softest, driest, and best smelling chalk on the market. Route season can be summed up in one single word. Pumped. I was always pumped. Regardless how many sessions of 60 moves I performed I was always pumped. When it camp to competition my only hopes were that I could power my way through the climb before lactic acid filled my forearms. I was headed into divisionals in 3rd place from regionals and lets just say that divisionals did not go well. I did, however, get to try speed climbing, which I shocked myself and qualified for finals in. I did not stay to compete. My new project outside (other than my secret FA boulders hehe) is Right Hand of the Leper (V10) and Moby Dick (V10). I think both will go once the cool temps come in. I have also began to run in an effort to lose some weight and climb harder. Psych is high this summer and big things are coming.

Saturday, January 18, 2014

A Quick Post

Eric Jerome

     It has been far too long since I have written a blog post and so much has happened since regionals.  The main events I would say have to be my winter break climbing trip to LRC and Rocktown with team, ABS Divisionals, and the Winter Burn which was today.  There is so much to write if I go into detail but I will instead attempt to summarize. LRC was amazing. Amazing rock, amazing views, amazing people, amazing climbs. It was all fantastic. My hardest tick of the trip I guess would have to be Red House Extension-V8. I was lucky to climb a lot of super classic boulders and experience some world class bouldering. As for divisionals, they did not go quite as well.  I had a really awful day during qualifiers. My nerves kept getting to me and kept me from sending. None of the climbs were that hard but my nerves got the best of me and I ended in 11th by one point, keeping me away from finals. It was a disappointing end to my bouldering season especially because I knew that I was easily strong enough to make top 5. I'm not too bummed considering it gives me a chance to get on ropes and build some endurance. Today, the annual Winter Burn at PRG took place.  I had an okay climbing day. I kept hurting myself in all different places but it wasn't a huge hinderance. I ended in second place closely behind Cameron Horst. I also placed 3rd in the pull-up contest with 30 pull-ups. Prizes were lots and lots of Clif bars which I'm pretty happy with. I'm really hoping that the weather can get better and dry up some of the rock near my house so that I can go clean and hopefully climb some boulders.