ABS15 Regionals

Eric Jerome

      Yesterday, I competed in my third ever ABS regional championship. My first year was still when I was very new to climbing. I qualified in the redpoint in 5th, however, in finals I managed to bump myself down to 8th and only qualified because the kid who took 3rd was not a USAC member. At divisionals I was still inexperienced and placed 19th out of 21 competitors.
 
       Last year was my first year in MYB and my competition was heinous. Somehow I still managed to place 7th then. At divisionals I only slightly improved from the year before and placed 17th of 21.

       Now to this years regionals. This format was going to be much different from last year as it is one round of 6 onsight climbs. I was pretty happy as 8th in the running order because for me the earlier the better. My first climb was in a tight dihedral. It looked to be about V4 but once I got on it I realized that it was probably only a V2 or so. My next climb was on a slab at the top overhang at the bottom wall. It started with some easy moves to a volume. Next you have to make your way from the UP brick sloper to some small crimps to finish the climb. As I reached the bricks unknowingly my foot was dabbing on another hold from a girls climb underneath the volume. I was called down which blew my flash attempt, however, I wasn't too worried because flash came third in the tie breaker. I sent it on my next go and tried to warm up my still cold fingers in the chair. The third climb was just my style. It was on a slight overhang laddering up the fall on good pinches with a lot of heel hooks available. I flashed this one and my fingers were starting to get warmer. The fourth climb was similar to the third. Lots of slick pinches on a flat wall. This one I flashed as well. My 5th one I knew would have to be harder. It was on a roll, meaning it starts super overhanging and rolls out into a flat wall. Started low right and worked to the left through some jugs. Then your have three blocks sticking out the wall and a big move to an edge. It took my two goes to figure out the sequence to stick the edge. On my third try I stuck it. Next you do a huge bump to a sloper than work up more crimps to the top. I got one of the crimps but was too tired out to stick the next move. I tried again with pretty much the same result. The 6th climb was also on a roll. It started low down left. Then traversed right onto two huge ball slopers on an arete. Then you traverse left again to some crimps on a volume and make a few vertical moves to some mini-jugs. It ends traversing right again with some crimps and slopers. My first attempt on the climb I was already pumped from climb number 5 and fought hard. Then I got super pumped but out on the big balls but managed to get the volume. I did the next move to the mini-jug but at that point I could hardly squeeze at all anymore. I fell there. My next to attempts I was too pumped to make it through the slopers again.

       Once the results came out I suprised myself by placing 2nd! Now I am more motivated than ever and am psyched to climb hard at divisionals.